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Airplanes-Misc.
Building
Lower Wings
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Final
Assembly-Carb Heat
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Ready to Cover
Covering
& Painting
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Finish Work
Painting
& Assembly
Final
Assembly
Final
Assembly (cont)
The
Final Verse
My Book
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Top
Row
Photo #1 -Finally
got to roll the fuselage over and see what the bottom looked like.
This picture shows my main structural bracing which is 3/4 by a varying
1 3/4 spar that will be screwed and epoxied to the floor. It also
serves to box in the main gear brackets and will add some shape to the
bottom. I needed to install some dowles through the bottom stringers
and into the vertical uprights just to make sure everything was secure.
Photo #2 -Bottom
stringers being installed.
Photo #3 & 5-This
is a good shot of Tim Seratt's engine jig. Welded angle iron with
holes properly spaced to accept 3/8 I.D. tubing. The tubing, about
2-3 inches long, is bolted up to the aft side of the angle iron after the
washers are welded to the aft end (firewall side) of the tubing.Also shows
how the jig was positioned on the fuselage. In my situation the engine
case mounts needed to be 12 inches away from the firewall and the thrust
line straight down the top fuselage longeron. The C-85 needs at least
11 inches in order for you to remove the starter after the engine is actually
mounted. Between the fuselage engine brackets we have a quarter inch
I.D. bushing that will be welded and strapped in. The fuselage engine
brackets will be lengthened on the fuse side and changed to .125 x 1" -
4130. (brackets don't show in this picture.)
Photo #4 - A
close up of the way the braces weld into the mount itself.
Bottom Row
Photo #1 - The
C-85 motor mount is now finished, complete with tork brace. Dennis
Robinson put on the final welds and tidied up my brace. He did a
nice job!
Photo #2 -Just
another view.
Photo #3 - Starting
a windscreen fiberglass jig. When
I cut fiberglass I learned from a fellow modeler to pull out one or two
strands in the area you want to cut. That way you can see a straight
line and not cross cut fibers which leave a hairy cut that keeps unraveling.
You have to carefully find one or two fibers and pull on them. As
you do the glass scrunches up. After you are successful in pulling
these fibers completely out, you can easily see a line to cut on.
That is what this photo shows.
Photo #4 -After
I have cut enough strips to complete one lay-up I use a plastic garbage
sack on the table. On top of this I lay a strip of fiberglass and
completely wet it down with a brush. (photo 2) That way, when I lift it
up and lay it in its position, it will stay put and allow me to get a nice
smooth first layer. I don't want the epoxy to set up before I do
the following layers, otherwise I would have to sand it in order for the
next layer to bite. After I have completed all lay-ups I wipe it
down with a paper towel to remove some of the excess epoxy .
Basically I want to be able to pull the frame off of the template without
ruining the template. Epoxy doesn't like to stick to plastic.
I use plastic butter lids for example to mix epoxy when the mix isn't critical
(i.e.-5 min. epoxy) With that preface then, what I do is use a lot
of back electrical plastic tape where I definitely don't want the epoxy
to permanently bond. I also use Saran Wrap (registered trademark).
The epoxy tacks to those items but won't bond.
Photo #5 -Initially
I use black plastic electrical tape wherever the fiberglass and epoxy will
attach. Epoxy won't stick to the form and it will easily pop right
off when cured. From the second layer on I lay bare glass on top
of the first layer and then brush in the epoxy. After the final layer
is brushed in I use a roll of toilet paper to roll across it. This
sops up excess epoxy. Be sure you are rolling the roll so that the
toilet paper doesn't unroll. As the toilet paper gets saturated you
can then tear off that part and throw it away and continue rolling.
I use West Systems epoxy (105/205) for this kind of work. I continually
clean my container (the bowl of the butter dish) and my brush after each
mix, with Acetone.
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